2020. 2. 21. 18:20ㆍ카테고리 없음
I bought a spare compressor assembled by an acquaintance that includes a K-A 331TV rebuilt pump. This model pump is typically used with a 5Hp motor, but said assembler only had a 36A/7.5HP motor on hand so he used that instead. So far, good for me.Question: how fast can you turn these pumps?
I have found indications on the net that under a 5HP motor, the 331TV typically is set up for 590 to 560rpm depending on max operating pressure. One reference indicates rpms up to about 670 are possible. Other makers, such as IR often spin similar sized pumps up to over 1,000rpm (IRT30 10HP, e.g.)Any first hand experience out there? Any idea If setting this up for 750rpm is a recipe for disaster?
Are the valves a limiting factor?This will not be the primary shop compressor. It is a spare in case my 5HP T30 ever goes down, and the K-A will be used as primary air for the blast cabinet; with the IR supplementing.
I probably use the blast cabinet or the outdoor pressure pot blaster less than 30Hrs/year.smt. J.-Thanks, that is one of the pages i was using. Just wondered if there is a rule of thumb or anything like that when exceeding 'manufacturer's typical rpm settings'But as you point out, they all seem to be doing it these days themselves.This is a bigger pump (displacement) than IR's 10HP unit which runs at 1040 rpm. Course the IR has a shorter stroke. I did move down the chart to the K-A 340TV pumps, which are made for 7.5HP. They have the same stroke, bigger bore, and run faster as well.
I am leaning toward setting the sheave ratio to give 725rpm & the cut out at about 135PSI, and just see how it does. Should still be overpowered, but better than the other way. Since this will not be run daily, I'm not going to worry about extreme longevity issues.OTOH There is probably an rpm where one gets diminishing returns (or possibly negative) where the valves and ports can't keep up.
But I have no idea whatsoever how to guesstimate that one.smt. J Hendricksen, thanks for that important bit of information about the valves.
Wonder if this a case where it might be prudent to take the head off and loctite or stake the parts in question? Harris was not very helpful, in fact they were probably trying to blow me off.
Long story, but sort of short version is that the guy said (words to the effect)'So all you want is a couple filters and you want to know how fast the pump should run?!?' Then he said, OK, hold on a minute. After a longish hold, I was funneled into the messaging system repeatedly. On a couple call backs, different versions of the same thing happened.A.C.E. Mentioned by J Carlson dropped the ball initially, but were apologetic and very helpful. Had the filters in stock and advised about the same as you guys 'don't run it any faster than you would for 5HP' According to their site, that would be a max of around 670 rpm. Even though the 340TV which is just a bigger bore version of the same stroke pump is good to 725rpm.Thanks guys!smt.
The Kellog 331 series has valves that are inserted and retained from the bottom of the head. I've seen 3 that have had the threaded keepers come out and wreck the head and piston. I would be wary of running one of these overspeed whatever that is.Harris Equipment in Melrose Park, Il services and stocks parts for AKellogs. They might be able to give you better info. I believe the 331TV is a splash oiled compressor, and utilizes a mechanical unloader. As such I think you would be risking destroying the bearings and unloader by running it faster than the rated RPM.I have a similar 311 TV that shelled out the unloader a couple months ago.
Not from over speed but rather from years of use. I couldn't imagine the damage that could have occurred if it had been running 50% or more above the rated rpm's. I couldn't find any unloader parts so I had to change around some plumbing and use a Load Genie check valve/unloader.
Welcome to the The Garage Journal Board forums.You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please,!If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. I have an old compressor that my Dad bought used in 1958, I think.
He used it daily until he died in 1991. He had a Garage. Then, as thangs happen, my compressor got a problem and instead of fixin mine, I got my Dad's. I, also, had a Garage.
It is still used daily since I've had it even though I have been retired 10 years.I never gave it much thought till it stopped running a week ago.The nameplates say:Pump to Tank Mounting Plate:American Brake Shoe CompanyKelloggModel # B 321 BSerial # B291557Plate small on Compessor:Model # 321Serial # B291557Decal small & faded below compressor plate:American Brake-ShoeI took the motor to a friend who does electric motor repair for a living. He said the motor looked like brand new, other than dirt dobber nests.
He cleaned it good and gave it back to me. When I got it home and all back together it still would not run.At this point I started checking voltage. One leg of the pressure switch had no voltage from the line wire to the motor wire. I removed the pressure switch and disassembled, just cause I wanted to.
Found a bug under one terminal of the points. I am pretty sure the pressure switch is/was the problem. I think it will work now, but I have not got the switch back on the tank.The pressure switch has Furnas, Batavia, Illinois on the top.
The nameplate (decal) is not legible. It came on the compressor when it was new. It has an original unloader valve on the side of the switch that has been disconnected for years.From the information, I listed above can anyone tell me the HP, single or two stage, CFM, and year model? Did you get it to run? I rebuilt mine about 4 years ago it's slow but works fine.Yes, I did. I opened my e-mail to see if there was a notification from here nd low & behold there was this.The compressor is outside under a lean-to. The pressure gauge is inside.
So, I need to rig a gauge outside and then set the regulator. I also need to set the unloader valve.Can anyone explain how to set the unloader valve?I let it run fer a pretty good while with the water valve open. It had plenty of water. The valve is not on the bottom, it is on the side of the tank. The valve has a tube that reaches inside and drops down near the bottom of the tank.I've set many a water well pump regulator and compressor regulators, but never one with an unloader valve mounted to the side of the regulator.
Almost all of them were Square D.I am still curious about HP, single or two stage, CFM, and year model. Two piston/cylinders? Is one bigger than the other? If they're the same size, it's a single-stage. If one is bigger, it's a two-stage.Horsepower? Ask your friend that rewinds motors. He held it in his hand, he ought to know.Schurkey, it has two cylinders, large and small, it has two cooling tubes between the small cylinder and the flywheel (pulley).
So it is a two stage pump. (Thanks.)The horsepower of the motor is 1.5. The motor does not have capacitors. It is probably 80 years old.
The man that repairs motors only saw the motor, the rest of the compressor was still behind my Garage under the lean-to.Mule. Mule,You and I are working on the exact same compressors, yours being a few hundred serial numbers older than mine.Our air compressor units (tank & pump) are American Brake Shoe Company/Kellogg Division Models “B 321 B” (by itself the pump is Model 321). Going by the last Patent Number on the ID plate our compressors were built in 1951-52.I am working on the tank right now and just finished cleaning the interior by electrolysis. I coated the inside with phosphoric acid which converts any trace rust into an oxide and then did an at-home hydrostatic test which will give me some peace of mind when the unit is up and running.I was happy to see that when I was pressure-washing the inside of the tank before starting the cleaning process that there was a minimal amount of rust draining from the tank. There were some large chunks of debris that I dislodged from within the tank, but the matter was a mix of oil and grease with a bit of rust residue tossed in. One good thing about purchasing compressors that may have not received the best of care is that worn piston rings pump plenty of oil-laden air into the tanks, which helps keep rust from forming.I am also rebuilding the GE 115/230v 1.5hp motor that came with this unit.
Kellogg Air Compressor Identification
The motor is a repulsion/induction type which is heavier than the compressor itself.The restoration of the 321 pump is going to have to wait until I finish rebuilding a Kellogg-American Model 331TV. I have attached a link to the KA 321 owners manual. This is not a vintage 1951 manual, but the 321 has not changed much over the years.
The manual has some highly detailed diagrams, maintenance info, and other helpful tidbits including a table listing torque specs for fasteners. For convenience, here is the overall summary of our pumps that I got out of the manual:Specification:■Power Range: 12HP/0.682.49Kw ■Maximum Pressure: 175Psi/12Bar ■Cylinders: 2■Bore of LP: 3.25”/82.5mm ■Bore of HP: 1.75”/44.5mm ■Stroke: 3”/76mm■ RPM: 400800■Flywheel Dia./Groove: 13.75”/349.25mm/2B Features:■Cast Iron Crankcase ■Cast Iron Cylinder ■Cast Iron Cylinder Head ■Ductile Iron Crankshaft ■Ductile Iron Conn. Rod ■Centrifugal Unloader■Cage Needle Bearings Wrist Pin ■Babbitt Bearings Crankshaft ■Taper Main Bearings■Steel Breather and Brass Sight Glass ■Power Coated Steel Filter Silencer ■Filled with DAB150 Lubricant ■Synthetic Lubricant as OptionalThe 321, like other 2-stage pumps can operate up to 175psi, but the higher pressure ranges serve only to strain the pump and the tank assemblies. I run my pumps at about 125psi because I still get the volume I need for most jobs, and none of my tools need much more than 125psi to operate.I hope you will keep me posted on your progress, and I will try to remember to do the same.-EJ. Mule,I hope you will keep me posted on your progress, and I will try to remember to do the same.-EJI have taken some pictures that I will post, but right now it is on stand still, because of the weather.
Kellogg American Air Compressor 335
In between rain, I am having to redo a metal roof that was installed last year. I tried to get the installer to repair it, but after seeing his work from above I am glad he did not show.Thanks fer the link and the other information.I am not rebuilding mine. I am simply trying to get it back to pumping air as it did in it's younger years.Mule.